(Small alligator posing at Suwanee Canal, south of Folkston, Charlton Co., GA)

Okefenokee Swamp, Charlton Co., GA

Pages and photos taken by, and copyrighted by, Tara D. Fields 1999-2001 except for jvf.jpg, which was taken and copyrighted by James V. Fields 1999-2001.

March 30: DuPont Rules Out Mining Near Okefenokee - Company Will Honor Agreement Even If Government Doesn't Pay (external link).

The Okefenokee Swamp, which means "Land of the Trembling Earth," is a depression in the land covering 438,000 acres. Created approximately 7,000 years ago, the swamp is mainly in Georgia but dips a bit into Florida. The Swamp gives birth to two major rivers, the Suwanne River and the St. Marys River. The Suwanne, which was made famous in song by Stephen Foster, heads south into Florida while the St. Marys travels east and empties into the Intercoastal waterway. The St. Marys River is known as one of the deepest rivers for its width. In fact, deep-bodied ships use to be towed to settlements inland. The St. Marys is also the border between Southeast Georgia (Camden and Charlton Counties) and Northeast Florida. The "Trembling Earth" is from the 15+ feet of peat that covers the floor of the swamp. Stomping on what appears to be "solid" ground can result and a rumbling underneath to the point where trees may fall and land sink.Contrary to popular belief, the Swamp is not just gloom, doom, and muck - like in the photo above. While there are some gloomy areas, and a bit of muck, much of the area is well lit. Travel through the Swamp can be achieved in relative safety if some simple, commonsense precautions are made.                      Wide-open prairies are spaced throughout the swamp. While not quite as "solid" as a mid-west prairie, these are open areas where tall grass grows but very few trees. The grass rises out of the peat so while the area may look solid there is often several inches to several feet of water. Some of the waterways are wide and easy to paddle through. Other areas are narrow and nearly inaccessible without some "boat-dragging." The widest areas are in the southeast section where canals were dug. These canals, sometimes known as "Jackson's Folly", were attempts at draining the swamp. Unfortunately, the swamp has a mind of its own no matter how the dug the canals the water kept flowing the wrong way! The effort was finally dropped. Railroads, however, were another matter. Enough solid land was available to allow entry of a train that was used to haul logs out of the swamp. The railroad no longer exists. Photo to right: View of Canal.

Indians inhabited the Swamp since about 2500 BC. Tribes included the Depford, the Swift Creek, the Weeden Island, and lastly the Seminoles. The last of the Indians, the few that were left after their numbers were decimated by white-man-introduced-disease, were driven out by General Charles Rindaldo Floyd of Camden County, Georgia. All that remains of their 4,500-year reign are burial mounds that dot the earth.Settlement by whites came slowly. Only the hardiest could survive the dangers posed by such a land. Alligators, snakes, sinkholes, and the Swamp's maze-like constructs were just a few of the hazards settlers had to face. The lure of the Swamp lied in its timber. Pine, Cypress, and other hardwood trees made settlement of the area desirable. Logging and turpentine were the main businesses in the area. Hunting for food and profit was also popular. Alligator were tracked to their dens, which lies underground and underwater. One caught and killed their skins were sold. The magnificent Black Bear was also hunted and skinned for its fur. While farming for basic needs was possible on the larger islands that dot the swamp, hunting and fishing were the main sources of protein.

The Swamp acts as a large water purifier. While the water is dark from tannic acid and low in oxygen from decaying vegetation, the trees and plants that make up the swamp help to clean the water before it is sent to the Gulf of Mexico and to the Intercoastal Waterway. In fact, water from the St. Marys River used to be prized for its flavor and its ability to stay fresh during long voyages by ship.

In 1937, 396,000 acres of the Okefenokee was declared a National Wildlife Refuge.                                                            The few settlers left in the area were moved out. In 1974, the vast majority of the interior of the swamp was declared a National Wilderness Area. Francis Harper did the most to encourage the preservation of the swamp. After his death, his wife, Jean Harper, took up the struggle and encouraged Washington politicians to save the swamp before it was too late. Francis's work was compiled by his wife and published in the wonderful book, Okefinokee Album. While declaring the Swamp a Refuge forced the removal of the settlers in the 1950s, such as the long-established Lee (Billy's Island) and Chesser (Chesser Island) families, it was the only way to save the Swamp from deforestation and future attempts at draining.

Few remains of settlements exist today. On Billy's Island, you can see the remaining of an old logging camp. On Chesser Island lies the old homestead. While the Chesser settlement of the island dates back to the 1850s, this home was built in 1927.                              Alligators are a common sighting during the summer and fall. During the winter they tend to bury themselves under the peat in their dens. It's a good idea to treat them with the respect they deserve! Most alligators, given the choice, will keep their distance from humans. If you are hiking or canoeing/kayaking, it's wise to stick to the trails. If you find a 'gator nest, do not try to approach it. Momma 'gator won't be far away and they are very protective of their young! Alligators can move very quickly so it's best to give them a wide berth whenever possible. Do not tease them, try to pet them, chase them, feed them, or swim in their waters.I encourage anyone who wants to see the supreme beauty of nature to visit the Swamp. From the flowering lilies, to the tall stark cypress, to the golden prairies, and even the majestic power of the resident Alligators, there is wonder and beauty all through the Swamp. Of course, there IS still muck, so wear rubber boots and stay in your boats!

Source Geology and Geography of the Okefenokee Swamp
Source Okefinokee Album by Delma E. Presley
( Click here for a review. )
( Click here to order from Amazon.com $17.95. )

Other links of interest
Chesser Island Homestead
Obediah's Okefenok
Carl Mobley's pages on Charlton Co. History and Chesser Genealogy
Okefenokee.com is a fun site to visit!